The boards get a pretty good bit of abuse so I need to put something durable over them. Any product claim, statistic, quote or other representation about a product or service should be verified with the manufacturer, provider or party in question. If you don’t like the color of the spar varathane, I’d say skip it all together. Hi Marc- Very helpful info. Living in Utah we have huge changes in weather from 100 degrees summer days to snow all winter. They tend to look yellow or orange on lighter colored woods. I am sorry that I did not make myself very clear. So you’ll have to move around a bit and selective sand certain areas to keep things even. Maybe not yearly, but certainly with some regularity. This made it worse. As I understand it, the Epiphanes Marc recommended is in fact a marine varnish. Their teak oil product is formulated with UV inhibitors and is well-suited for outdoor applications. We will not be cutting on the countertops. we are building a teardrop trailer and would like to have a stained wood finish for the side walls (the top will be covered with aluminum). Hi Gail. My goal with the DVD was to demystify finishing by going over each and every step of the wiping varnish process. Hi Vicki. My dilemma with choosing a finish is being caught between two conflicting interests. Your water-based formulations should not yellow over time. As for the acronym, that would be an MSDS. Thank you! I thought I would condition, stain (grey) and top off with Spar Urethane. That is all I used and it looked great! But if the appearance isn’t a huge issue, you can probably get away with lightly sanding the entire area and coating it with the varnish. The coating is pretty worn down. Traditional varnish (sometimes called Spar Varnish or Marine Varnish) is a resin in an oil base with solvents. Any easy way to confirm if it it red oak or white? Marc, I am trying to refinish a large round table. I assume that one needs to first remove the epoxy coat. Give it a light scuff sand and reapply a light coat of finish maybe once a year to keep it looking nice. It gets splashed with water and the paint keeps coming off. Unfortunately, over the years, the wood which originally had a reddish color has faded from exposure to the sun (from the window). Will you impressions sitting on a spar varnished outdoor chair? Varnishes create a hard finish that protect and beautify everything from wood floors to delicate woodwork, but do you know the difference between a spar varnish and regular varnish and when to use them? Well just about anything that produces a film will be slick. I’ve heard cedar turns grey over time, what can we do to prevent this if we like the red color the wood already has? What would you recommend for a clear, glossy finish that will stand up to the temperatures and sunlight inside a parked car over time, and not be sticky or tacky to the touch? How To Paddle A Kayak – Strokes & Techniques Explained. Shudder…. I’m taking my dining room, walnut, Spanish style table and poplar chairs outside onto a concrete patio in Los Angeles California. I have a similar problem with a cedar picnic table, although I had coated it with polyurethane. Marine Varnish Spar is the recommended varnish for a variety of outdoor uses. I’d appreciate any advice! I would like for them to really hold up well outside in Ohio. If not, you could wind up with some variability between the old and new finish. I agree that it probably is red oak. I do see that Epifanes carries a matte but notes it has yellowing in it, is it as drastic as an amber shellac? It is a kind of oil-based varnish that makes the objects glossy and protects them from external damage. Hi Helen. Willing to take time with this, and use the best varnish for this non-wood “craft” project. Having kept tropical fish in the past, I know how sensitive they can be so I am not prepared to even make a recommendation for a finish that would survive those conditions, while being safe for your finish. Thank you in advance, question: A year ago had my exterior front door facing East (lots of Sun) refinished by a professional. Thxxxx j9, Well if you don’t an amber hue, your options are fairly limited. Can’t find regular vaenish locally. Hi, That’s that I’d use. The term comes from the days when spars were made of wood and ships were at sea. I am in the process of building a folding table that will be subjected to moisture with great frequency. For example, I have used Formby’s Tung Oil Finish for years with great results, which I know is just a wiping varnish, and I was wondering how it compared to the Arm R Seal you use on your projects. Good day. Required fields are marked *. One option would be to carefully scrape and sand the finish until you start to approach the paint layer. I see references in comments here and elsewhere to a ‘good thinner.’ Can you point me in a good direction for a good thinner you would use to thin Epifanes? I want to protect some decorative painted birdhouses to place atound my garden areas. The MAJOR difference between the two is that Spar Urethane stays on the surface of the wood and acts like a shell. I have a new unfinished European Birch butcher block countertop. Oil/varnish blends are nice one furniture and medium to low-wear projects. But that doesn’t mean every spar varnish is made with phenolic resins. Would a polyurethane resin based finish be best for sealing a kitchen table? I live in Santa Cruz where we have a boat shop and indeed they sell Epiphanes but only in high gloss. I like David Marks stuff as much as anything I’ve seen but Woodworks has been in reruns for how many years now. Would I still use Epifanes or does this have an amber color to the clear? You don’t have to mix it or sand between coats. Grandpa would definitely want his old boats re-coated with spar urethane instead of spar varnish to make his boats’ color, shine, and finish last longer and more vivid. I am simply wondering what brand. I would like to protect the wood (and us from splinters) without changing the color, adding gloss or creating a hard plastic feel. What would you recommend? Epifanes is a good option yes. Someone pointed me in your direction and the local hardware stores think I am insane for asking for such a specific product… Help! My compliments to your site here Its a terrific wealth of information. Polyurethane doesn’t seem to do either. And that probably won’t change what you do to treat it so its a bit of a moot point. Based on your non-marine need, I would recommend urethane. Since he wouldn’t need to repaint it more often, he’d really be saving a lot of money in using this water- and UV-resistant paint for his marine vehicles. After sanding and staining, the previous owner used Minwax Water Based Poly on the floor and, with seasonal temperature variations and regular use, the poly cracked and crumbled out of the gaps over time. Give it a go and be sure to update us with the results! I live in Toronto and have Sapele windows that have weathered badly on the sill and need to be treated and varnished. I am constructing a wood fire sauna boat with a repurposed 25 foot tritoon. It’s a water-based formula intended for exterior use. So what is the acronym for the list of materials in a product? Do you think there is a need or any benefit if I add in the mix some boiled linseed oil ? Also, the door gets the full western sun in Alabama. Epifanes: http://www.amazon.com/gp/produ.....MOKFZYIR6T, Great! I have a small can of spar varnish that has been in the garage for years. Any suggestions would be appreciated. We live in St. Louis Missouri, and purchased a 8 foot bamboo fence, in 20 sections, to install as our privacy fence. The pamels are already up and stained and looking beautiful. We have refinished our old wood floors several times with different products. It may also have a higher level of durability, meaning it could require re-application less frequently than spar varnish, but can often cost more.Both spar marine varnish and spar urethane have their own benefits, such as water and UV resistance and flexibility, and can be very similar. Dick. Spar Varnish soaks into the wood to keep the fibers in the wood from drying out. Help! Have you ever used spar Varnish or any other varnish to seal tile grout. The most common oil used to make varnish is linseed oil. Sad to say that can is likely no good and you’ll want to buy a new one. We raise and show dogs, thus, many piddle mistakes. Currently, I am using a water-base stain on Ash and I am thinking about trying Spar varnish to finish it. Thanks! http://i58.tinypic.com/290xwuo.jpg Or should I just apply all polyurethane and then some paste wax (. We certainly appreciate your expertise and recommendations. She has it varnished but does not maintain it. I had a professional refinish them and the job only lasted one season. May I apply a poly e prior to the pour – with proper drying time of course? While both spar marine varnish and spar urethane can offer water protection for your wooden canoe, boat or paddle, the one that is best for you will likely come down to budget and/or maintenance.With the high level of moisture protection that comes with spar urethane, this could be a good choice for coating paddles, canoes or other wooden vessels. Generally speaking, the oil-based product will be more more durable and will look better. If yes at what percentage. The main goal is to protect your wooden paddle or vessel from water and weather and both of these products could help you do that.Let us know if you’ve enjoyed this guide and if you’ve found it helpful. I’ve been told the Alkyd and Phenolic resins were discovered and have been in use for over 100 years. Or at least, not as much as an oil-based paint would. The table has been stained with a reactive stain for a weathered/driftwood rustic look. Only one of the three doors gets hammered with hard late afternoon sun and heat. (The table color looks dead, while the leaves are alive.) Then repair with the epoxy, sand everything smooth again, and apply the topcoat. I don’t want anything “shiny” because I love the look of the natural wood and it blends with the aging pier. Are there marine products available in Canada that I could use that would not be too shiny? There are several primary differences between spar varnish and polyurethane that set the two distinct classes apart from one another. Spar marine varnish can require several coats, with several hours in between each one to allow it to dry completely before the next coat. PS: photos can be seen here: Any less expensive ideas? Hello, Probably just to thin it out and make it easier to work with. I would like to put something stronger that would last longer than 2 years. It gives you greater durability by far. OLD MASTERS 92304 Spar Marine Varnish, Satin. And if it does, where in Canada can I find it? That’s going to be a very tricky endeavor. Any epoxy from the home store will do the trick. We need to varnish (preferably spray it on) but we are afraid of any shine on it. The surface will dry out from time to time and you can just easily apply more mineral oil. Korosh – I am an architect, and have sapele wood windows in my home, I have tried several products on them for maintenance, and have found Sikkens Door and Window to be the best so far for a finish that lasts. I’ve sanded it and now want to varnish it with something that’s not only waterproof but everything-else proof. Now if for some reason there is already poly on the door, the oil/varnish blend might not be the best option, because the wood is already sealed. I would probably go for what I like to call the “bulletproof” finish. ;). Thanks! The abrasion method is quite nice because it also smooths the surface beautifully. I now know that marine spar is softer to deal with the constant expansion and contraction of a boat’s life on the sea but has pretty darn good UV inhibition (granted it has a good number of coats). 2. (like 6 weeks). The main difference between the two is spar varnish will eventually chip or chalk off over time, while spar urethane will maintain a hard, shiny surface. As for woodworking shows, I’m a relatively new woodworker and I learn something every time I watch Wood Works and New Yankee Workshop. Can I use Epifanes Clear Varnish for all coats and then sand with 0000 steel wool to accomplish this, or possibly the Clear Varnish with a final coat of the Woodfinish Matte product? We are new to being home owning and therefore DIY. Hey Marc, does spar varnish provide any extra water-proofing over poly? Here are my questions: 1. This is going to take time and patience. So, just look up. One thing about spar marine varnish is that you will likely need to reapply it regularly as it can often flake off or chip.The word ‘spar’ is relative to marine, in that it is used as a term for the mast or staff on a ship, so spar varnish should be ideal for marine use, as that is essentially what it is designed for. There is so much conflicting information as to the best covering for the job. Would this work on our wood floors as a better barrier to piddle mistakes and heavy traffic? It has natural UV protecting properties. Any suggestions for a door that is in pretty much direct sunlight because all our huge trees have died. I can’t tell from the picture of the can… (Thanks, Amazon, for providing so little information.) Thanks! That’s a good way to keep a fairly natural look without compromising completely on protection. Now comes the important question… Would spar varnish be a good option for finishing my bamboo bike? All I want to do is put a varnish on an interior window sill that is above a kitchen sink. Apply using a natural-bristle brush. Thanks for your expertise!! That said, you should be able to scuff sand, clean, and then apply a spar varnish. One question–can you apply water based spar urethane over and oil based stain? In the past I replaced a bass boat deck plywood and coated with 1st linsead oil, 2nd, 50/50 linsead oil and spar varnish, 3rd coat spar varnish (carpet on top of that) I used a recommended varathane I think it was called and after a year the plants my wife put on the sill have left a bit of a mark. Not sure just how well a polyurethane varnish would adhere to those various materials. In reference to the plywood boat and cedar deck. But keep in mind that water-based finishes are not the most durable for outdoor use. just don’t want it ‘pimped-out’ with the typical shiny finishes. Oh that’s an interesting thought. For instance, using a small amount of oil and a large amount of resin will produce a very hard but somewhat brittle finish. ARe there any stains that resist fading, too? I would like to stain it a darker color and finish with some type of top coat, but not mineral oil, tung oil, etc. 1) I have become concerned about food/wine stains ruining the table. DOES ANYONE KNOW? Any advice you can provide, and especially to the bottom of the “feet” where it would be subject to retained moisture would be greatly appreciated. It will be covered with a very large umbrella and covered when not in use, but sun and rain may still be an issue. I am certainly no specialist in the area of siding, but I am sure a good quality spar varnish would indeed protect adequately. I have read that a good badger hair brush is required for the best possible finish. If that’s the case, I would just start applying your oil/varnish blend. I will obtain some sort of cover in the future, yet it will be exposed to moisture from time to time. Would you recommend marine spar varnish for the pew? Please help……. In the majority of places, there are spaces of up to 1/8″ between the boards. I am looking for a good finish for some cherry coasters, which will obviously get wet from time to time. Spar Varnish Vs. Spar Urethane. My question is about coating my bay window sill. I know this is outside your wheelhouse but wondered if you’ve even heard of anything related? From the sounds of it, there’s nothing left….. I have built stairs and seating benches out of redwood for my outside deck. I’m a complete newbie to wood finishing, but I do have a basic understanding of epoxy paints & clear coats for automotive body painting. Bit of an unusual one, this. I too am so disappointed on the Spar Varnish. I had a new front door installed last winter, and it has an oak sill. Richard. I use birch plywood and either paint with exterior semi-gloss paint or stain. I don’t know about everybody else but I get tired of watching him build the same thing over an over. This may or may not help: http://www.thewoodwhisperer.co.....yurethane/, Hi Marc, Coupled with a high quality marine varnish, you should have a good solid finish that will last quite a while. These early … It will be exposed to shower spray frequently. I would like to put spar varnish on it but I cannot do a lot of sanding on the veneer. Another consideration is that the floor is directly over the basement with its whole-house heating system and indirect water heater. You can intentionally rough up the surface with some sandpaper, which will give you a matte look but a surface that isn’t quite so slippery. For now, I’d say use the stuff that gives the look you want. Do you think this would work? I have tried to coat it with a shellac sealer with three coats of sprayed lacquer over it. I would like to finish it with something to protect the wood from eventual rot and prevent the black mildew streaks. I don’t feel that Helmsman is the best varnish for the job, but it’s a little late to change it. Are these products/techniques appropriate for floors? The 2 options of wood are pressure treated and not. Just about any finish for an exterior surface is going to be flexible and less hard than it’s interior counterpart.